Shikairou's claim to fame is unique: this is the restaurant where champon was invented. Chen Pingshun, a Fujianese immigrant, opened the place in 1899 and created the cheap, filling noodle soup specifically to feed Chinese students homesick for a taste of home. The recipe — wheat noodles in a rich pork-and-seafood broth thickened with lard, topped with cabbage, prawns, and whatever else came in that morning — has barely changed in 125 years. The restaurant occupies a smart five-storey building near the foot of the Glover Garden slope, with views over the harbour from the upper floors. Touristy but the food is genuinely good.