Bayterek (in Kazakh, "tall poplar tree") is the official symbol of modern Astana and the obvious starting point for any visit. The structure is a 97-metre observation tower — a slender steel lattice supporting a golden glass sphere — that holds a viewing deck giving the best overview of the planned left-bank city. The sightline from Bayterek runs straight along the central axis past the presidential palace to the Khan Shatyr, with the ministries flanking the boulevard on either side.
The lift ride and viewing platform are paid; queues can be long in summer afternoons, so go early or late. The upstairs deck has the famous golden handprint of Nursultan Nazarbayev — a small gilded indentation set into a plinth where you can press your palm and reportedly have a wish granted. The surrounding plaza, with fountains and benches, is a popular evening hangout for locals. The tower is illuminated at night in changing colours.