Subic

Former US naval base on Luzon, remade as a freeport of beaches, jungle, and duty-free streets.

Subic Bay Freeport Zone occupies the former US Naval Base on the west coast of Luzon, about two and a half hours' drive north of Manila. The Americans left in 1992 after the Philippine Senate voted not to renew the lease — ending what had been one of the largest US overseas military installations in the world. Since then the base has been converted into a special economic zone combining light industry, duty-free retail, beaches, and family attractions. The result is unlike anywhere else in the Philippines: American-grid streets, English signage, and a residual expat culture layered over a rapidly changing Filipino city.

The surrounding jungle is surprisingly intact for a former military site. The US military inadvertently preserved 14,000 hectares of old-growth tropical rainforest by keeping developers out for half a century, and the forest now forms a protected watershed home to wild monkeys, hornbills, and the Aeta (Agta) indigenous people who returned after the base closed. The bay itself offers excellent wreck diving on ships from World War II, including the USS New York and the Oryoku Maru.

Family attractions — Zoobic Safari's tiger enclosures, Ocean Adventure's open-water marine shows — draw large weekend crowds from Manila. Barrio Barretto, the beach strip north of the main gate, is where most of the nightlife concentrates, with a long-established bar and dive-shop scene. The whole place rewards exploration beyond the resort perimeter: the remnants of the naval base, the jungle trails, and the waterfront all carry layers of history that most day-trippers miss entirely.