Wat Chang Lom

A Sri Lankan-style chedi at Si Satchanalai ringed by 39 sculpted elephants.

Wat Chang Lom — "Temple of the Surrounding Elephants" — is the masterpiece of Si Satchanalai. A perfectly proportioned bell-shaped chedi in the Sri Lankan style sits on a square base, and around that base, half-emerging from the laterite blocks, are 39 life-size stone elephants, their massive front legs and shoulders pressing outward as though they were carrying the weight of the monument above.

The original Buddha image niches that ringed the chedi a step above the elephants once held seated Buddhas, all but four of which have disappeared, leaving stylized lotus-shaped pedestals. The composition is one of the finest in Thai religious architecture, and is best photographed in the warm light of the first or last hour of the day.

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A story
King Ramkhamhaeng's stele records that on his way back from a war in 1285 he built a great chedi here, taking six years to finish it, and that elephants were used to drag the stones into place. Whether for that reason or as a symbol of strength, 39 stone elephants were carved emerging from the base.

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