Wat Phra Phai Luang is the largest temple in the northern zone of the park, about a kilometre north of the walled city. Like Wat Sri Sawai, it began life under the Khmers in the late 12th century, as a sanctuary on the route from Angkor toward the Chao Phraya valley. Three prangs once stood here in the typical Bayon-style arrangement; only the northernmost survives, weathered and tilting but unmistakably Khmer in its tower form and decorative reliefs of dancing apsaras and divinities.
After the foundation of Sukhothai the temple was converted to Buddhist use, and the ruined mondop in front of the prang once held a seated, walking, reclining and standing Buddha — the four canonical postures. Few visitors make it out here, which is part of the appeal: the ride through a quiet wooded landscape from the central park is a pleasant break, and the temple is often empty.