Erzurum is one of eastern Anatolia's great highland cities. It sits at about 1,900 metres, cold in winter and crisp even in summer evenings, with mountains close enough to shape the skyline. For travellers crossing eastern Turkey, it is more than a transport stop: the centre has a tight cluster of Seljuk and Ottoman monuments, and Palandöken rises just south of town.
The historic core is compact. Start with the Twin Minaret Madrasa, Erzurum Castle, the Three Tombs, and Yakutiye Madrasa. Together they make one of Turkey's strongest medieval stonework ensembles outside the more famous western cities.
Erzurum is also a place to eat heavily and walk it off. The local cağ kebab is lamb roasted on a horizontal spit, sliced onto skewers, and served fast. In winter, the Palandöken Ski Center turns the city into Turkey's best-known high-altitude ski base.