Tokat lies in a fertile valley south of the Black Sea mountains, far enough from the coast to feel like inland Anatolia. The city has not been polished for tourism, which is part of why it works. Old mosques, Ottoman houses, caravanserai courtyards, and a castle crag sit in the middle of an active provincial city.
The old spine is Sulusokak, a narrow street below the castle where museums, tombs, and historic houses break through the modern fabric. Around it are the Ali Paşa Mosque, Taş Han, the clock tower, and the Mevlevi lodge. A day here is mostly walking, looking up at stonework, and stepping into courtyards.
Tokat is a strong stop between Amasya, Sivas, and the Black Sea interior. It is not as scenic as Amasya, but it has enough depth to reward a traveller who likes old Anatolian towns that have not turned themselves into museums.