Bolo Haouz Mosque

Bolo Haouz Mosque sits directly opposite the Ark citadel, separated from it by an open plaza, and was the emir's official Friday mosque. Its most distinctive feature is the 20-column wooden iwan added in 1917: slender painted columns supporting a carved timber ceiling decorated in blue, white, and gold, all reflected (once) in the hauz pool that gave the mosque its name. The portico is a masterpiece of traditional Bukharan carpentry and looks like nothing else in the city.

The mosque is still an active place of worship, and non-Muslim visitors are generally welcome outside of prayer times. The interior is modest compared to the elaborate exterior — the focus here is entirely on the iwan and its extraordinary columns. It is often bypassed by visitors who spend all their time at the Ark, but the combination of the citadel wall, the open square, and this elegant wooden facade makes for one of Bukhara's best compositions.

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The 20-column wooden iwan (portico) facing the Ark was added in 1917 — just months before the Russian Revolution swept away the emirate the mosque had been serving. The emir used to perform his Friday prayers here within sight of his citadel, crossing the open plaza between them as a public demonstration of piety. The mosque's name, "Above the Pool," refers to a hauz that reflected the columns until Soviet sanitation campaigns drained it in the 1930s.

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