Ba Dinh Square

The square where Ho Chi Minh declared Vietnamese independence in 1945

Ba Dinh Square is the largest public square in Vietnam, a vast open rectangle of lawn and ceremonial pavement in front of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. The square is bounded on the north by the mausoleum itself, on the west by the Presidential Palace and Ho Chi Minh's stilt house, and on the south by the National Assembly building. It is used for state occasions, military parades, and national ceremonies, and is otherwise a quiet, slightly formal open space where local families and schoolchildren on trips come to stand where history happened.

The scale of the square is designed to convey the solemnity of the state, and it does: standing in the middle of it in the early morning before the crowds arrive, with the mausoleum's grey granite mass in front of you and the trees behind it, is a more affecting experience than it might sound. The flag-raising and lowering ceremonies happen here each day at dawn and dusk respectively; the military precision of them draws Vietnamese visitors who treat the ceremony as genuinely important, not as spectacle.

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A story
On September 2, 1945, Ho Chi Minh stood at a microphone in the center of this square and read out the Vietnamese Declaration of Independence to a crowd estimated at several hundred thousand people. He began by quoting the American Declaration of Independence: 'All men are created equal. They are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights; among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.' He then pivoted to condemn French colonial rule. OSS agents from the US — America's wartime intelligence service, whose officers had been working with the Viet Minh against Japan — were in the crowd. Within months, France had moved to reestablish colonial control and the First Indochina War had begun.

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