The colonial-style dining room inside the Grand Pacific Hotel, with white tablecloths, slow ceiling fans, and a menu that ranges from a proper kokoda starter to grilled walu and lamb shanks. It is the most formal dining room in Suva and one of the few places with a serious wine list.
Not cheap by Fijian standards, but you are paying for the room and the service as much as the food. Reservations strongly suggested in the evening.