Durrës is Albania's second city and main port, founded by Greek colonists around 627 BC as Epidamnos (later renamed Dyrrachium by the Romans). It sits 38 km west of Tirana on the Adriatic coast and is the first stop for ferries arriving from Italy.
The most significant sight is the Roman amphitheatre, discovered in the 1960s and one of the largest in the Balkans, with a capacity of 15,000–20,000. It sits partly beneath the modern city, and what has been excavated is open and walkable. Early Christian mosaics in the vaults are a highlight. The Archaeological Museum nearby holds Greek, Roman, and Illyrian material from the city's long history.
The old town retains sections of Byzantine-era city walls and a Venetian tower. On the hill above the port, the Royal Villa of Durrës, built for King Zog I in the 1930s in Italian Rationalist style, is striking even in its unrestored state.
Durrës is also Albania's main beach resort for domestic tourists: a long stretch of sandy beach runs south of the city and is heavily developed with hotels and restaurants. It is functional rather than beautiful, but convenient if you arrive by ferry and want a beach day.
The ferry port connects Durrës to Bari (approximately 10 hours) and Ancona (16–19 hours) in Italy. Buses and furgons run frequently to Tirana throughout the day.