Quimper is the cultural capital of Finistère and, many Bretons would argue, of Brittany itself. It sits at the confluence of the Odet and Steir rivers, and its medieval centre — half-timbered houses leaning over cobblestoned streets, the twin-spired Cathédrale Saint-Corentin rising above it all — is one of the best preserved in western France.
The city wears its Breton identity proudly. Cornouaille, the old kingdom whose capital this was, is still celebrated at the Festival de Cornouaille each July, one of the largest Celtic music and culture festivals in Europe. You will hear Breton spoken here more than almost anywhere else.
Quimper is also the home of faïence pottery — distinctive hand-painted earthenware decorated with scenes of Breton peasant life. The Musée de la Faïence tells the story, and shops selling the pottery are easy to find in the old town. The Musée des Beaux-Arts has a solid collection, particularly strong on Pont-Aven School painters.
The coast is close: the estuary of the Odet, lined with châteaux and manor houses, leads south to the sea at Bénodet, about 20 kilometres away.