A few kilometres west of Karlovasi a small road ends at a pebble beach, with a footpath up a wooded ravine that leads to a series of waterfalls and pools. Some you reach by walking; the deeper ones require swimming through cold, clear water in canyon-like stretches between rock walls. The water is icy even in August.
The path passes the eleventh-century Byzantine chapel of Metamorfosi, one of the oldest churches on the island, with a few fading frescos still visible inside. Allow a half-day for the round trip — most of it is shaded and the climbing is gentle until the last scramble.