☰Ladadika

Tucked between the port and the centre, Ladadika — "the oil district", named for the Sephardic merchants who once stored olive oil here — is the city's main going-out quarter. The low 19th-century warehouses have been converted into a dense cluster of mezedopoleia, ouzeries, bars and music joints, and the cobbled lanes between them stay busy until very late. Come for dinner, stay for a long evening of small plates, tsipouro and conversation.