☰Trattoria Da Enzo al 29

A simple, lively Trastevere trattoria with checkered tablecloths and a menu that rarely strays from Roman classics. The cacio e pepe, carbonara, and braised artichokes are all done well; the coda alla vaccinara on Thursdays is worth timing your visit around. No frills, cheerful service, and the kind of atmosphere — close tables, locals and food-obsessed visitors mixed together — that makes Roman eating what it is. Book ahead; it fills up every night.