Trattoria da Maria is not elegant, it is not quiet, and you will share tables with strangers. It is, however, one of the most authentic experiences of Genoese everyday eating available to an outsider. Operating from a set of interconnected rooms just off Via XXV Aprile, it serves a daily changing menu at prices that have barely changed in a decade.
The pesto is made by hand. The pasta is fresh. The soup is good. Order whatever the person next to you is eating — the daily specials are always the best choice. Open for lunch only; queues form at the door from noon.