Ligurian cooking is deceptively simple — pesto alla genovese was born here, and it tastes nothing like the jarred version. Seek out focaccia from a bakery in the morning, farinata (a crispy chickpea flatbread) for a mid-afternoon snack, and pansotti al sugo di noci (pasta in walnut sauce) for dinner. The city's best meals are in unpretentious neighbourhood trattorias, not the tourist-facing spots near the port.