Selinunte
©
Selinunte

Selinunte

Ancient Greek city site on Sicily's southwest coast, with ruined temples across two hilltops.

Selinunte was one of the most powerful Greek cities in Sicily, founded by colonists from Megara Hyblaea around 650 BC on the southwestern coast of the island. At its peak it had a population of perhaps 100,000 and covered an area larger than ancient Athens. It was destroyed in a catastrophic Carthaginian attack in 409 BC, rebuilt partially, destroyed again in 250 BC, and then abandoned for ever. Today it is one of the largest and most impressive archaeological parks in Europe, its ruined temples scattered across two hilltops above the Mediterranean, largely untouched and very little visited compared to similar sites elsewhere.

The modern village of Marinella di Selinunte, a small beach resort, sits immediately adjacent to the archaeological park — you can eat at a seafront restaurant and then walk directly into the ruins. The combination of Greek antiquity, Sicilian sun, and the sound of the sea makes Selinunte one of the most atmospheric ancient sites in Italy.

The park covers about 270 hectares and is divided into two main zones connected by a long walk: the Acropolis on the western hill, and the Eastern Hill with the better-preserved temples. Temple E, dedicated probably to Hera, was partially re-erected in the 1950s and is the most complete of the Selinunte temples; standing before its Doric columns is a genuine experience of ancient grandeur. A good 3–4 hours is needed to see both zones properly.

Guide

Getting There

Selinunte is most easily reached by car — public transport connections are limited. From Agrigento (about 80 kilometres east), take the SS115 coastal road. From Palermo (120 kilometres north), take the A29 motorway toward Mazara del Vallo and then follow signs for Castelvetrano and Selinunte. The nearest train station is at Castelvetrano, about 8 kilometres north; buses run from there to the park but not frequently. Organised day tours from Palermo, Trapani, and Agrigento include Selinunte as a stop.

Guide

Things to Do

Selinunte is essentially a single destination: the archaeological park. Allow at least half a day for a proper visit — the park is large and the two main zones (Acropolis and Eastern Hill) are about 1.5 kilometres apart. Wear sun protection and comfortable shoes; shade is limited and the ground is uneven throughout.

Guide

When to Go

Spring (April–May) is the best time to visit: the wildflowers are out across the archaeological park, the temperatures are comfortable for walking, and the site is not yet crowded with summer visitors. The famous wild celery (selinon) that gave the ancient city its name still grows along the river nearby. July and August are hot and crowded — the combination of Mediterranean summer sun and no shade in the park is punishing. Autumn is also very good. The park is open year-round, though winter weekdays can find it almost deserted, which has its own appeal.