Gjilan — Gnjilane in Serbian — is the main city of eastern Kosovo, the administrative centre of the Gjilan region, and the country's third-largest city. It sits in the broad Morava e Binçës valley, surrounded by low hills, close to the border with North Macedonia. It is a quieter and more laid-back place than Pristina, which is part of its appeal.
The compact city centre has a pedestrian zone lined with cafés and small shops, and a covered bazaar where you can browse local produce, textiles, and everyday goods. The old bazaar area retains some of the atmosphere of a traditional Balkan market town. A statue of Adem Jashari — the founding commander of the Kosovo Liberation Army, a revered figure in Kosovo — stands prominently in the main square.
The countryside around Gjilan rewards a bit of exploration. The Monastery of the Holy Archangels in the village of Binç is a Serbian Orthodox site of some age, and there are several other churches and monasteries scattered through the hills of the region. The Morava e Binçës river valley itself is pleasant farming country — orchards, fields, and small villages — a contrast to the urban bustle of the capital.
Gjilan came under US military authority (the KFOR sector) after the 1999 war and has a predominantly Albanian population today, though Serbian and Roma communities remain. The city has rebuilt considerably since then and functions as a regional commercial and administrative hub.