Founded in 1852 by Grigore Capșa, this hotel-restaurant-café complex on Calea Victoriei was the unofficial parliament of Romanian literary and political life from the late 19th century to the Second World War. Caragiale wrote there, Iorga argued there, and royalty held private dinners in its upstairs rooms. The pastry shop, established by Grigore's brother Anton, supplied the royal court and is still going.
The interior has been restored to something close to its original glory — gilded mirrors, stucco ceilings, marble tables in the café. The kitchen is solid rather than spectacular but the patisserie and the bonbons are genuinely excellent. Sit in the café at the front, order a coffee and a piece of chocolate cake, and try to imagine the room a century ago.