Săpânța

Maramureș village near Ukraine, famous for the painted crosses of the Merry Cemetery.

Săpânța is a small village in Maramureș county, in the far north of Romania, near the Ukrainian border. It is famous for one thing: the Merry Cemetery (Cimitirul Vesel), one of the most unusual burial grounds in Europe.

The Merry Cemetery's wooden crosses are painted in a vivid blue and carved with colourful scenes and witty epitaphs that describe the life — and sometimes the death — of the person buried beneath. A heavy drinker's cross shows him with a bottle; a shepherd's shows his flock. The tradition was started in 1935 by local woodcarver Stan Ioan Pătraș, whose workshop and house next to the cemetery is now a small museum. The carvings are folk art of a high order, funny and moving in equal measure.

Săpânța is also home to the Săpânța-Peri Monastery, which claims the tallest wooden church in the world — a 78-metre spire built entirely of oak, completed in 2003 as a deliberate revival of the Maramureș wooden church tradition. The village itself is a quiet farming settlement in the rolling hills of Maramureș, a region where traditional wooden architecture, haystacks, and horse-drawn carts still define the landscape.

Getting here requires a car or a tour from Sighetu Marmației, which is about 18 kilometres to the south.

Guide

Getting There

Săpânța has no train station and no direct bus service worth relying on. The practical options are:

By car — the most flexible approach. From Sighetu Marmației it is about 18km on a good road (DN19A), taking 25–30 minutes. From Baia Mare, the regional capital, it is around 90km — roughly 1.5 hours — following the Iza Valley road through some of the most scenic countryside in Maramureș. The drive through villages like Bârsana and Ieud is worth the detour.

By taxi or hired car — from Sighetu Marmației, a taxi to Săpânța for a half-day visit (cemetery, monastery, and back) costs around €15–25 depending on waiting time. Negotiate the price before leaving.

By tour — several operators in Sighetu Marmației and Baia Mare run day trips that combine Săpânța with other Maramureș highlights: the UNESCO wooden churches of the Iza Valley, the Mara Valley, and the village of Bârsana. This makes sense if you are without a car and want to cover the region efficiently.

By local bus — there are occasional minibuses from Sighetu Marmației, but schedules are unreliable and return journeys are not guaranteed. Not recommended unless you have time to spare and a backup plan.