Târgu Jiu
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Târgu Jiu

Târgu Jiu

Small Romanian city in the Jiu Valley, known for Constantin Brâncuși's monumental sculpture ensemble.

Târgu Jiu is a small city in the Jiu Valley of southwestern Romania, and it would be entirely unremarkable if not for one thing: Constantin Brâncuși was born nearby, and in 1937–38 he created an extraordinary ensemble of monumental sculptures here that ranks among the most important public art in Europe.

The three works — the Table of Silence, the Gate of the Kiss, and the Endless Column — are arranged along a 1.3-kilometre axis running through the city from the Jiu River eastward. The ensemble was designed as a memorial to the Romanian heroes of the First World War, and every element is precisely calculated: the hourglass seats around the Table represent souls, the kiss motifs on the Gate symbolise union and sacrifice, and the Column rises as if it might extend infinitely upward. Walking the axis from west to east takes twenty minutes and is one of Romania's most affecting experiences.

The city itself is a modest regional centre. The Gorj County Museum has good Dacian period collections, and the Church of the Holy Archangels on Piața Victoriei is worth a look. Most visitors come for the sculptures alone, and that is reason enough. For committed Brâncuși enthusiasts, the village of Hobița, 24 kilometres south, is the sculptor's birthplace.

Guide

Things to Do

Târgu Jiu's reason for existing, touristically speaking, is the sculptural ensemble that Constantin Brâncuși created here in 1937–38. The three works are arranged along a single east–west axis running through the city, from the Jiu River to the public park at the far end — a walk of about 1.3 kilometres that is one of the most significant art experiences in Romania.

Start at the western end, at the river, with the Table of Silence. Move east along the Alley of Chairs — 30 limestone seats arranged in pairs along the avenue — to the Gate of the Kiss in the park. The Endless Column stands at the eastern extremity, 29 metres of cast-iron rhomboid modules rising against the sky.

The Gorj County Museum in the city centre covers the natural and human history of the region, with good archaeological collections from the Dacian period. The Church of the Holy Archangels on Piața Victoriei, a short walk from the ensemble, is one of the finest examples of Romanian Orthodox church architecture in the area.

For Brâncuși enthusiasts, the village of Hobița — 24 kilometres south of Târgu Jiu — is the sculptor's actual birthplace. His memorial house is open for visits and gives context to the Târgu Jiu ensemble.