Vyatka — officially renamed Kirov in 1934 but still called Vyatka by many of its residents — is one of the oldest cities in the Russian northeast, founded in 1181 by Novgorodian settlers on the high western bank of the Vyatka River. It sits deep in the taiga belt, far from any tourist circuit, and has the quiet, self-contained character of a provincial Russian city that has never needed to perform for outsiders.
The city's main draws are the Assumption Cathedral overlooking the river, the Dymkovo toy workshops across the water (the brightly painted clay figurines are one of Russia's most recognisable folk crafts), and the Alexander Garden, a pleasant clifftop park with views over the river valley. The centre retains a good collection of 18th- and 19th-century merchant architecture, with pastel-coloured facades lining the main streets.
Vyatka is bitterly cold in winter — January averages around minus 14 — but the snow-covered taiga surrounding the city has a stark beauty. If you find yourself here, the Vyatka Regional Museum in the former bishop's palace gives a thorough overview of the area's history and natural environment.