Zlatibor is both a mountain plateau and a resort town in southwest Serbia, about 230 km from Belgrade and 25 km south of Užice. The town itself goes by Partizanske Vode on most maps, but everyone calls the whole area Zlatibor. Serbs have been coming here since the late 19th century, and the place has a well-worn, unhurried feel that keeps them coming back.
The plateau sits at between 1,000 and 1,400 metres, a sweep of serpentine and limestone grasslands and forested valleys that stretches for roughly 200 sq km. It is genuine mountain country: wolves, deer, wild boar, foxes, and badgers move through the forests, Griffon Vultures circle the thermals, and Golden Eagles and European Eagle Owls are spotted regularly. The meadows are carpeted in wildflowers from spring through early autumn.
The resort facilities are concentrated in the town. Hotels and hostels are plentiful and modestly priced, and there is a good range of self-catering apartments. The Green Market is excellent — pick up preserved fruits, fruit wines, rakia, dried meats, and kajmak (a rich local cream cheese). The district is also known for Sirogojno knitwear, made by hand in the nearby village and sold directly from the makers at the market; prices are reasonable and haggling is expected.
Village tourism is a real draw. Several villages in the district have opened up for visitors, and the ethno-village of Staro Selo in Sirogojno, the Sargan Eight mountain railway at Mokra Gora, and Emir Kusturica's eccentric Drvengrad settlement are all worth a half-day or more each. The Tornik ski resort serves winter visitors, and Ribnica Lake makes a pleasant summer excursion. The Uvac Monastery above the Uvac river gorge is one of western Serbia's most dramatic spots, about 18 km from the resort. Between them, these attractions make a strong case for basing yourself in Zlatibor for several days rather than just passing through.