The Plaza de Santa María is the heart of Jaén — a broad open space squeezed between the south facade of the cathedral and the old episcopal palace. The plaza was opened up only in the 17th century, when several blocks of medieval housing were demolished to make room for the cathedral's monumental presence.
It is the place to come for an evening glass of wine in one of the cafés along the eastern side, looking up at Vandelvira's facade with its towers and balustrades. The Sunday vermouth crowd starts gathering around noon.