The finest surviving example of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture, perched on the slopes of Monte Naranco about two kilometres uphill from central Oviedo. The building is remarkably sophisticated for 9th-century Europe — a two-storey structure with a barrel-vaulted upper hall, open arcaded loggias at each end, and carved medallions showing animals and human figures that draw on late Roman, Visigothic, and even Eastern influences. Nothing else in Western Europe from this period comes close.
The walk up from the city centre takes about 30 minutes through residential streets and woodland. You can also drive or take a taxi. The church is usually open for visits in the morning and early afternoon; a joint ticket covers both Naranco and the neighbouring San Miguel de Lillo. Come early or late to have the place to yourself — tour groups tend to arrive midday.