Alcázar de San Juan
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Alcázar de San Juan

Alcázar de San Juan

La Mancha railway town surrounded by vineyards and tied to local claims about Cervantes' birthplace.

Alcázar de San Juan is the largest town in La Mancha, sitting on the vast Castilian plain south of Madrid. It is primarily known as an important railway junction — one of the busiest in Spain — and as wine country: the surrounding vineyards produce large quantities of Castilla-La Mancha wines. Cervantes scholars have long debated whether it, rather than Alcalá de Henares, was the true birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes, a claim the town takes seriously.

The town centre has a couple of interesting monuments: the Torre de Mudéjar, the octagonal Mudéjar tower that remains from the original Knights of St John fortress, and a Centro Cervantino dedicated to the claim that Cervantes was born here. The windmills of La Mancha on the ridge south of town are the quintessential Don Quixote landscape — white towers with wooden sails against a vast flat sky. It is not a major destination but a reasonable stop on a road trip through the region, and the local wine is worth trying.

Guide

Getting There

Alcázar de San Juan is primarily a railway junction — one of the busiest in Spain — and the easiest way to arrive is by train. The station connects Madrid Atocha (about 90 minutes by regional express) with cities to the south and east: Alicante, Albacete, Valencia, and Ciudad Real. If you are travelling by train between Madrid and the Mediterranean coast, Alcázar is on the main line.

By car it is about 150 km southeast of Madrid on the A-4 (formerly the N-IV), the main road to Córdoba and Cádiz. The town makes a logical lunch or sightseeing stop on a longer drive. There is no shortage of parking in the centre, and the historic core is small enough to cover in an afternoon.