Talavera de la Reina sits on the Tagus west of Toledo, a working Castilian city with a name that still means ceramics. Its blue, white and ochre pottery travelled far beyond Spain; even Mexico's Talavera tradition carries the echo of this town.
The old centre is not as polished as Toledo, and that is part of the appeal. You come for the Ruiz de Luna Ceramics Museum, the tilework in the Basilica of Nuestra Senora del Prado, the city walls and a riverside walk by the Tagus.
Talavera works best as a slow stop between Madrid, Toledo and Extremadura, or as a detour through the western edge of La Mancha. It is honest, a little rough in places, and much more interesting if you care about craft, river cities and the layered history of central Spain.