Fan Tan Alley

Canada's narrowest commercial street, once the centre of Chinatown's opium trade

A narrow passage barely a metre wide threading through the block behind Fisgard Street in Victoria's Chinatown — at some points you can touch both walls simultaneously. It dates from the 1880s, when it was lined with gambling dens and opium rooms accessible through unmarked doors in what was then Canada's largest Chinatown. The businesses today are modest boutiques and art studios, but the physical character is unchanged: the alley bends, narrows, and opens into small courtyards in a way that makes it easy to understand why it was useful for clandestine purposes.

From Fisgard Street, the Gate of Harmonious Interest marks the entrance to Chinatown; Fan Tan Alley is half a block in on the left side of the street. Worth a few minutes at any time of day.

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At its peak in the late 19th century, Fan Tan Alley was lined with gambling dens and opium parlours operating more or less openly — Chinese immigrants were not permitted to gamble in the main city, so Chinatown became a self-contained parallel economy. The alley's opacity and its doors-within-doors layout made police raids unpredictable to survive. Today's boutiques and studios occupy the same footprint.

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