Cozumel is a small island off the coast of Yucatán, 19 kilometres across the channel from Playa del Carmen. It is one of Mexico's premier dive destinations, with the western shore fringed by the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef — the second-largest reef system in the world — and water clarity that often exceeds 30 metres.
The Maya called the island Cuzamil, "the place of the swallows", and it was an important pilgrimage site dedicated to Ixchel, goddess of fertility, the moon, and childbirth. Women crossed from the mainland in dugout canoes to leave offerings at her shrines; the most important survives today as the San Gervasio ruins in the centre of the island.
The reality of modern Cozumel is split. The west coast around San Miguel — the island's only town — caters squarely for the cruise crowds, with souvenir streets, chain restaurants, and three big piers receiving up to seven ships a day. Move beyond the town and the island opens up: empty beaches on the wild east coast, a national marine park at Chankanaab, and reefs at Palancar and Columbia where the wall drops into deep blue. Rent a car or a scooter for a day and you will see a different island entirely.
Most of the interior is protected jungle and lagoons, home to a small endemic raccoon, abundant birdlife, and several inland cenotes. The east coast — exposed to the open Caribbean — has no developed resorts: a single road runs the length of it past stretches of empty sand, rough surf, and a handful of beach bars.