Jefferson City
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Jefferson City

Jefferson City

Missouri capital on river bluffs, anchored by a hilltop capitol and former state penitentiary.

Jefferson City is the capital of Missouri, a small city of about 43,000 on the bluffs above the Missouri River. It is one of the less glamorous state capitals in the country -- overshadowed by St. Louis and Kansas City -- but it has a handsome setting on the river and enough to fill a day if you are passing through.

The Missouri State Capitol dominates the skyline from its hilltop perch. The building is worth a visit for its interior murals by Thomas Hart Benton, which depict Missouri's history and people with an earthy, populist energy that is far more interesting than the usual state capitol art. The Missouri State Penitentiary, which operated from 1836 to 2004, offers tours of the old cell blocks and is genuinely atmospheric -- it once held Pretty Boy Floyd and James Earl Ray.

The Missouri River runs right through town, and the Katy Trail -- a 240-mile rail-to-trail conversion that is the longest in the country -- passes through Jefferson City. The trail follows the river valley and is excellent for cycling, with limestone bluffs, river views, and small-town stops along the way. Downtown Jefferson City has a few good restaurants and the Capitol City Brewing Company for a post-ride beer. The city is quiet, but it makes a logical stop on a drive across Missouri or a good base for a stretch of the Katy Trail.