Calhau is the beach neighbourhood of São Luís, stretched along the northern coast of the island around its eponymous beach. The district has a more modern character than the historic centre — apartments, restaurants, beach bars — and it's where much of the city's middle class comes to relax on weekends. The nightlife here runs parallel to the reggae scene of Praia Grande, leaning more toward MPB, forró, and axé.
Several of the city's better seafood restaurants are in Calhau, taking advantage of the proximity to the sea and the more affluent customer base. The neighbourhood is safe and easy to navigate, and it offers a view of contemporary São Luís life that complements the colonial world of the historic centre.