Abancay is the capital of Apurimac, set in a warm Andean valley between Cusco and Ayacucho. It is not polished for tourism, and that is part of the appeal: buses stop here, markets work for locals, and the mountains rise sharply above the city.
The reason to stay is the landscape around it. Ampay National Sanctuary begins almost at the city's edge, protecting high Andean forest, lagoons, and the snowy Ampay massif. To the east, the Saywite archaeological site has one of Peru's strangest Inca stones, carved with miniature terraces, channels, animals, and shrines.
Abancay is best for travellers who like rougher Andean towns and don't need everything packaged. Come for a day if you are crossing the southern sierra; stay longer if you want to hike Ampay properly or use the city as a low-key base for the Apurimac canyon country.