Huaraz is the trekking capital of Peru and the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca, the highest tropical mountain range in the world. At 3,050 metres above sea level, it sits in a broad valley flanked by snow-capped peaks that turn pink at sunset — a sight that never gets old, even after a week of sore legs and altitude headaches.
The town itself is not much to look at. The 1970 earthquake levelled most of old Huaraz, and what replaced it is functional concrete rather than colonial charm. But nobody comes here for the architecture. They come for the mountains, and in that department Huaraz delivers like few places on earth. The surrounding Huascarán National Park contains dozens of peaks above 5,000 metres, turquoise glacial lakes, and some of South America's finest multi-day treks.
Even if you are not a hardcore trekker or climber, there is plenty to do. Walk up to the Mirador de Rataquenua for a panoramic view of the Cordillera Blanca — it takes about an hour from town. Better still, continue to Pukaventana, where the views over the valley are astonishing. The surrounding area offers excellent day trips to archaeological sites like Chavín de Huántar, glacial lagoons such as Laguna 69 and the Lagunas de Llanganuco, and the sobering Yungay Memorial.
For the serious trekker, the Santa Cruz Trek is the four-day classic — a circuit through the heart of the Cordillera Blanca beneath Alpamayo and Chopicalqui. Those with more time and mountain experience take on the Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit, a twelve-day loop through some of the most remote and spectacular terrain in the Andes.
Huaraz has a well-developed traveller infrastructure along Avenida Luzuriaga, the main drag, where you will find tour agencies, gear rental shops, restaurants, and bars. The dry season from May to September is prime time — blue skies nearly every day and the trails in perfect condition. Come during the rainy season and you will have the place more to yourself, but expect afternoon downpours and muddier paths.