Pancho Guedes Architecture Trail

Self-guided tour of buildings by Mozambique's most influential modernist architect

Maputo is, among other things, an open-air museum of Pancho Guedes architecture. The Mozambican-Portuguese architect designed more than 500 buildings in the city between the 1950s and 1974, in a wildly inventive style of his own. Several of them are within easy walking distance of each other in the upper Baixa and Polana — visiting them in sequence is one of the more rewarding ways to spend a couple of hours.

Key buildings to find: the Saipal Bakery (1954) on Avenida Eduardo Mondlane, with its scalloped concrete roof; the Smiling Lion apartment block (1956–58) with its grimacing facade; the Octopus House in Polana; Promotora del Coração de Maria church; the Tonelli House with its forked entry posts; and the DLouro House on Avenida Patrice Lumumba. A walking map is sold at the Casa Comum, the cultural centre on Avenida Karl Marx, which also runs occasional guided architecture tours.

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**Amancio "Pancho" Guedes** (1925–2015) designed more than 500 buildings in Maputo, almost all of them between 1950 and 1974, in a wildly individual style that mixed Le Corbusier with surrealism, Antoni Gaudí and African mask traditions. He called his work "Stiloguedes." A handful of his buildings have been demolished, but most still stand and define the look of central Maputo more than any other architect.

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