Ban Lung is the rough-edged capital of Ratanakiri Province, tucked into Cambodia's remote northeast corner where the forests are thick, the roads are muddy, and the modern world feels very far away. It is not a polished destination — a monument in the main square shares its plinth with a herd of grazing goats, and the market overflows with produce carried in on foot from the surrounding hills — but that's exactly its appeal. This is a base for exploration, not a place to lounge.
The town's surroundings are the draw. A few kilometres out, Yeak Laom is a perfectly circular volcanic crater lake of startling emerald clarity, calm enough to swim in and gorgeous enough to linger at for half a day. Further afield, waterfalls fan out from the town: Cha Ung, the most dramatic; Ka Chanh, the most easily swimmable; and Katieng, the smallest and most peaceful. North of town, the river settlement of Voen Sai has riverbank cemeteries with carved wooden grave-figures that are unlike anything else in Cambodia.
Every morning, Hilltribe people from the surrounding villages — Tampuan, Kreung, Jarai — hike into town to sell at the market. It is a lively and genuine scene: baskets of forest vegetables, handwoven textiles, and goods you won't find anywhere else in Cambodia. The town can be reached by road from Stung Treng (expect a long and bumpy ride, depending on the season) or by small aircraft on the dirt airstrip outside of town.
If you have made it this far, Ratanakiri rewards the effort. Give yourself at least two or three days and hire a motorbike or guide to reach the sites that lie beyond walking distance. For real wilderness, the multi-day treks into Virachey National Park are among the most remote you can do in Southeast Asia.