Fuzhou is the capital of Fujian province and one of China's oldest cities, with more than 2,000 years of recorded history. It sits in a basin ringed by hills, crossed by the Min River, and has a character shaped by three things: its long history of overseas trade, its reputation as a city of banyan trees, and the distinctive Fujianese dialect and food culture that has spread throughout Southeast Asia and beyond via its massive diaspora.
The city was opened to foreign trade in 1842 following the First Opium War, and the old Three Lanes and Seven Alleys district — a preserved neighbourhood of Ming and Qing dynasty courtyard houses — gives a sense of what the city looked like before modernisation. Three Lanes and Seven Alleys is the centrepiece of historical Fuzhou, with traditional timber-frame residences converted into teahouses, galleries, and restaurants.
Outside the historic core, Gushan in the eastern suburbs is Fuzhou's principal hill and holds the ancient Yongquan Temple. The Fujian Museum is worth visiting for its collections of lacquerware, dehua ceramics, and maritime history. Fuzhou is also genuinely famous for its hot springs — geothermal water rises throughout the city, and many hotels have private spring baths.