Gegentela, further from Hohhot than Xilamuren and with fewer organised tours, is the better choice if you want grassland that feels less rehearsed. The camps here are smaller, the infrastructure thinner, and the surrounding landscape less groomed for tourism — which is exactly the point. Mongolian herding families operate some of the camps directly and the hospitality is less scripted than at the larger Xilamuren sites.
The drive from Hohhot takes about two hours and passes through interesting transitional landscape — the agricultural belt north of the city gradually gives way to true steppe as you climb toward the northern plateaux. Organised transport is available from Hohhot guesthouses but less frequently than to Xilamuren; hiring a car is the more flexible option. Gegentela is best as an overnight stay rather than a day trip; the grassland experience at dawn is worth the additional night.