Ayam Goreng Suharti

Old-school Javanese fried chicken, slow-poached then crisped to order

The Bandung outpost of the Yogyakarta original, serving the famously crisp Suharti-style fried chicken: free-range birds first poached in lemongrass and coconut water for several hours, then deep-fried to order. The chicken arrives looking unspectacular and tastes nothing of the kind — crackling, lightly sweet, the meat falling off the bone.

The accompaniments — kremes (shredded chicken floss), sambal tomat, raw cabbage — round things out. Branches around town; the Jalan Pemuda branch is the most central. Inexpensive and consistent.

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