The central feature of Hakone: a caldera lake 7.5 km long, surrounded by forest-covered volcanic hills and, on clear days, framed by the perfect cone of Mount Fuji rising to the north-west. The view of Fuji above the lake is one of Japan's classic images and appears on everything from screen prints to sake bottles.
The best Fuji views are from the western and southern shores — Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi — particularly in early morning before cloud builds. The scenic cruise between these points on replica pirate galleons is touristy but genuinely enjoyable. Fishermen work the lake's shores in the early hours.