Jabal Amman is one of the original seven hills of the city and now the most visitor-friendly of the old residential neighbourhoods. The First and Second Circle areas concentrate the greatest density of cafes, restaurants, guesthouses, and cultural spaces within walking distance of each other. Rainbow Street runs along the spine of the hill from the First to the Third Circle, and the side streets dropping off it contain stone villas from the 1920s to 1950s alongside converted-to-cafes successors.
The neighbourhood has gentrified significantly since the 1990s but retains genuine character — old families in old houses beside new creative businesses, with the Citadel visible from most rooftops. It is the most walkable area of central Amman and the best base for most visitors.