The banks of the Bagmati River south of Pashupatinath have several ghats (riverside steps) used for both bathing and cremation, connected by a riverside walk. South of Pashupatinath, the Sunil Ghat area and the Teku confluence (where the Bagmati meets the Bishnumati) are focal points for Hindu ritual, particularly during festivals. The walk along the river gives a view of Kathmandu that most tourists miss entirely — ordinary neighbourhood life pressed up against the sacred geography of the city.
The river walk is best in the early morning. Bring drinking water and be prepared for the sight and smell of cremation — this is part of the experience, not an oversight.