The broader Pashupatinath temple complex — beyond the main pagoda that non-Hindus cannot enter — includes a long riverfront of subsidiary shrines, ashramas housing sadhus from across the subcontinent, and the Bagmati River ghats where cremations take place continuously throughout the day. The eastern bank of the river gives views across the water to the main temple and the cremation ghats; you can watch from here without intruding.
The sadhus gathered on the western bank near the main temple are, some of them, genuine ascetics who have renounced ordinary life; others are photographers' props who expect payment. Most welcome the curious but a donation is appreciated. Early morning visits (before 9am) are the most atmospheric; the light is better, the cremation fires are at their busiest, and the number of tourists is lower.