Dagupan is the bangus (milkfish) capital of the Philippines. This coastal city in Pangasinan province sits where the Dagupan River meets the Lingayen Gulf, and its economy and identity revolve around the silvery fish farmed in the surrounding fishponds and estuaries. If you are passing through the northern Luzon coast, it is worth stopping for the food alone.
The centre of town is the Dagupan Cathedral and the Magsaysay Fish Market a few blocks away — the latter at its best between five and seven in the morning. Out at Bonuan, Tondaligan Beach is where the city takes its evening stroll. A short hop south, the 17th-century Calasiao Church is one of the best-preserved Spanish-era brick churches in northern Luzon, and the town's famous puto Calasiao steamed rice cakes are sold from every stall around it.
The annual Bangus Festival in April fills the streets with grilled fish, cooking contests, and street dancing — including a kilometre-long barbecue along the river that holds the Guinness world record. Outside festival season, Dagupan is a busy commercial centre serving the surrounding province — not a tourist destination in itself, but an honest, lively Filipino city with good seafood and a friendly atmosphere.