Mui Ne - Phan Thiet
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Mui Ne - Phan Thiet

Mui Ne - Phan Thiet

Vietnamese beach resort strip where grey sand, fishing boats, and red dunes meet the South China Sea

Mui Ne Beach stretches along the coast about 300 km northeast of Ho Chi Minh City, reachable only by road. A long strip of soft grey sand backed by low-rise hotels, bamboo bungalows, and coconut palms, it has been developed with more restraint than most Vietnamese beach resorts — good gardens and tree screening give each place a sense of seclusion.

The real character of Mui Ne comes from the contrast between the beach resort strip and the working fishing village at the far end. The small harbour is picturesque, and few tourists venture past the famous red and white sand dunes that roll for hectares behind the village. The Fairy Stream — a shallow waterway cutting between sandstone cliffs in shades of rust and orange — makes for an unusual hour of walking. On the western edge of town, the Po Shanu Cham Towers are 9th-century Hindu ruins with sweeping coastal views.

Mui Ne is one of the best kitesurfing and windsurfing spots in Southeast Asia. From November to April, strong north-northeast winds reach 20-30 knots — serious conditions for experienced riders and an excellent learning ground for beginners. A dozen schools operate along the main strip. Hon Rom beach, 10 km away, offers bigger waves during the windy season.

Between July and October, the Phan Thiet fishing boats go out at night and form a magnificent display of lights visible from shore. The local seafood is excellent — the restaurants lining the inland side of the main road serve Vietnamese and international menus at a range of prices.

Guide

Eating Out

The seafood along the main strip (Nguyen Dinh Chieu road) ranges from tourist-standard to genuinely good. The restaurants on the inland side of the road are generally cheaper and more likely to have local Vietnamese clientele. Look for sun-dried squid, fish hotpot (lau ca), and thick noodle soup with fishcakes (banh canh cha ca) — these are the regional specialities and far more interesting than the generic Western menus.

Lam Tong on the main strip is popular with kiters for its large bowls of noodle soup at low prices — the kind of place that does one thing very well. The Moon Restaurant near the beach is known for its pizzas — a surprise in a Vietnamese beach resort, but well-regarded by long-term residents. For fresh seafood by weight at the embankment stalls, the standard approach is to pick your fish, agree a price, and specify how you want it cooked.

The town of Phan Thiet, ten kilometres west, has a better range of genuinely local Vietnamese restaurants than the resort strip. Banh mi stalls here are among the best in the province.