STAM is the best place to understand Ghent before wandering too far into its handsome centre. The museum uses maps, models, objects, and multimedia to explain how the city grew from medieval power to industrial centre to the lively university city it is now.
The setting is part of the pleasure: a former abbey complex joined to crisp modern additions. Go early in a Ghent stay if you can, because the museum gives names and structure to the canals, towers, neighbourhoods, and civic rivalries you will keep meeting outside.