Sofia is a compact, walkable capital with a relaxed atmosphere and a quality-of-life that surprises most first-time visitors. It is one of the cheaper European capitals, has good museums, excellent café culture, and easy access to the Vitosha mountain that rises directly above the southern suburbs.
The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, built in the early 20th century to honor the Russian soldiers who died in the Russo-Turkish War of 1877–78, is the city's most recognizable landmark — one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, with a gilded dome and elaborate Byzantine interior. The adjacent crypt houses a large collection of icons. The older St. Sofia Basilica nearby, which gives the city its name, dates from the 6th century and is considerably more austere. The tiny brick Rotunda of Saint George, hidden in a courtyard behind the Presidential Palace, is older still and contains three layers of medieval frescoes.
The National History Museum, in the former communist-era residence on the outskirts of the city, has the best overview of Bulgarian history — Thracian gold, Roman mosaics, medieval art, and the story of the Bulgarian National Revival. The Sofia History Museum in the old central bathhouse covers the city's own history. The National Archaeological Museum is in the former Great Mosque and worth an hour. Don't miss the medieval frescoes of Boyana Church, a UNESCO site on the southern edge of the city.
The area around Vitosha Boulevard and the pedestrianised city centre is pleasant for walking and eating. The Lozenets and Studentski Grad (student town) neighborhoods have the most interesting bar and restaurant scenes. The Women's Market (Zhenski Pazar) is Sofia's main produce market and a good place to eat cheaply among locals; the more elegant Central Market Hall near the synagogue is the indoor counterpart.
Vitosha mountain is accessible from the city by tram and gondola lift. The hike to Cherni Vruh (2,290 metres) takes about 3 hours from the gondola top station and gives views over the entire Sofia basin on a clear day.
From Sofia, the Rila Monastery is an easy day trip (about 2 hours by car). Plovdiv is 2 hours by bus or train.