☰Alençon

Alençon's surrounding countryside is full of worthwhile excursions. Sées, 20km north, has a magnificent Gothic cathedral — one of the finest in Normandy — and a quiet, slightly melancholy character that makes for a good hour or two of wandering. The Château de Carrouges, 25km northwest, is one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in Normandy, with a moat and brick-and-stone towers dating from the 14th century. It is managed by the national monuments authority and is open to visitors year-round.

The Alpes Mancelles — a slightly optimistic name for the rolling hills to the south, straddling the Orne and Sarthe departments — are excellent for cycling and walking, with the gorge of the Sarthe river at Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei particularly scenic. The village is listed as one of the most beautiful in France.

Alençon has a solid selection of restaurants for a town its size, with Norman cuisine — cream, cider, calvados, and good meat — well represented. The area around the basilica and the market square has the highest concentration of places to eat. Market day is Thursday, when the main square fills with local producers selling cheese, charcuterie, and seasonal vegetables.

The local speciality worth seeking out is andouille — tripe sausage — for which the Orne department is known. It is an acquired taste but the good version, made with proper technique and not the industrial shortcut, is excellent. Cider and calvados from the Orne orchards are the drinks to go with Norman food.

Alençon is served by its own railway station on the Paris–Le Mans–Rennes line. Trains from Paris Montparnasse take about two hours with a change at Le Mans. Direct trains from Caen take about an hour and a half. The station is a short walk from the town centre.

By car, Alençon sits on the N12/E50 between Paris (200km east) and Rennes (190km west), and on the N138 between Le Mans (50km south) and Rouen (130km north). It makes a natural stopping point on any cross-Normandy drive.

Alençon rewards a half-day's leisurely exploration. The old quarter has a concentration of half-timbered houses, a fine Gothic basilica, and a lace museum that is genuinely world-class. Beyond the town centre, the Forest of Écouves and the Alpes Mancelles offer excellent walking country. Most sights are within easy walking distance of each other in the compact centre.

Alençon has a mild Norman climate — wet enough that the forests are lush, but not dramatically cold in winter or hot in summer. The best months to visit are May through September. The Thursday market is worth planning around. The Forest of Écouves is at its most beautiful in October and November when the autumn colours are on.

The town hosts the Festival des Jeux de l'Esprit in autumn, a board games and strategy games festival that draws enthusiasts from across France. Alençon is also a stop on the route of Paris-Brest-Paris, the legendary long-distance cycling event held every four years, when the town fills with cyclists and spectators.