Agios Nikolaos is the capital of eastern Crete's Lassithi region, a pleasant town of about 10,000 people built around a small lake and a Venetian harbour. It became Crete's first real tourist resort in the early 1970s and was once known for noisy nightlife, but has since settled into a more relaxed, upmarket identity. The recent addition of a large marina has added sailing regattas to the summer calendar.
The town takes its name from the small Byzantine Church of Saint Nicholas on a peninsula near the old harbour. Built between the 7th and 9th centuries during the Iconoclastic period, it retains some of its original frescoes and is open to visitors year-round.
Lake Voulismeni is the focal point — legend says Athena once bathed here. Today it is ringed with tavernas and cafes, and brightly painted fishing caiques bob around the edges. The Archaeological Museum holds fine Minoan material from sites across eastern Crete, including the remarkable Goddess of Myrtos.
The surrounding coastline has more Blue Flag beaches than any other area in Greece. Almyros is a long sandy stretch just north of town, while smaller rocky coves to the south offer solitude. The clear water is excellent for snorkelling. The ancient Dorian city of Lato, 6 km to the west, makes an excellent short excursion with spectacular views over the Mirabello Bay.