The waterfront strip east of the ferry terminal has a row of ouzeris and fish tavernas that face the bay. The format is the classic ouzeri model: small plates of meze — taramasalata, tzatziki, grilled bread, fried whitebait, cheese — paired with ouzo or tsipouro, the Greek pomace spirit. It is a slow, sociable way to eat that works particularly well in the late afternoon before the evening meal rush.
The quality varies; the better places identify themselves by having a visible fish display rather than just a printed menu. Octopus grilled over charcoal and dried on a line is a reliable indicator of a serious kitchen. The morning fish market a short walk along the waterfront supplies most of these kitchens; you can eat what was caught the previous night.